- 4L60E SHIFT KIT INSTALLED NOW SLIPPING INSTALL
- 4L60E SHIFT KIT INSTALLED NOW SLIPPING MOD
- 4L60E SHIFT KIT INSTALLED NOW SLIPPING FULL
- 4L60E SHIFT KIT INSTALLED NOW SLIPPING CODE
It is pretty cheap too, only like $50 or so. Transgo makes a kit called the SK-4L60E and it is designed specifically for fixing this issue (and a few other things). Here's the fix I found and it worked perfectly!
not red) and leave the PWM functioning, IMO. If you want the TC clutch to grab a little better, put in a bottle of BLACK LubeGard (yes, BLACK. With the Sonnaz hardened valve and hardened sleeve in there it will be a very, very long time before that valve is cycled enough to wear the bore again.
4L60E SHIFT KIT INSTALLED NOW SLIPPING FULL
I would give some thought as to whether or not to lock the PWM in full apply position or whether to leave it functioning. I have the Sonnax setup in mine since my problems with P1870 popped up years ago.
4L60E SHIFT KIT INSTALLED NOW SLIPPING INSTALL
They have you ream the bore and install a steel sleeve along with a new hard-anodized valve. GM's reman transmissions address the PWM valve bore wear by reaming the bore and installing a larger valve. So, I'm personally questioning the advisability of locking out the PWM valve to full apply pressure on a daily driver. I myself have this in my truck, but I have begun to wonder if Sonnax's warning about this is not somehow relevant to my repeatedly cracking flex plates.
4L60E SHIFT KIT INSTALLED NOW SLIPPING MOD
Admittedly, this elimination of the PWM valve stroke is a common mod in shift kits so as to get a firmer apply and less TCC heat. is not designed to take full non-PWM TCC apply pressure at all times under all conditions. Sonnax recommends against this practice, stating that the TC clutch assy. A quick fix for this is to lock the PWM valve into full pressure position (via inserting a spring in the bore), and getting on/off TCC engagement as in the pre-electronic 4L60E (the 700R4s used an on/off strategy until 93 when they became the 4L60E). and the accompanying tripping of the MIL for P1870. convert clutch shudder, falling out of lockup, etc. This contributes to less than full apply pressure being commanded of the actual TCC valve, and subsequent tq. After a few years of cycling, the bore wears (obviously, being the softer of the two metals). In stock form, the steel spool valve rides in the Aluminum bore in the valve body. It's due to wear in the valve body bore around the TCC PWM valve. Thread closed due to necro-posting spammer. I'm thinking that the worse likely problem is that I wear out the clutches for lockup and end up having to replace the torque converter.
My biggest concern is that we're headed for a 3K trip from Utah to Dallas and back and I don't want to cause any additional problems, or especially suffer a catastrophic failure along the way. I know there are other problems that I could encounter, but I don't expect to own this vehicle much past 200K miles, and don't want to sink a lot of $$$ into it. I really don't want to pay a transmission shop to tear it all down to do this, as I'm sure they would recommend a full rebuild. Has anyone experienced this? I know you can buy a new "liner" for the TCC bore after it has been reamed out. The problem goes away at around 65 MPH and above.
4L60E SHIFT KIT INSTALLED NOW SLIPPING CODE
There has been no trouble code recorded yet for slippage, and even though I can see it on my tach and hear it in the drone of the engine (lovely straight 6 exhaust note), my AutoTap ODBII which has the "enhanced GM diags", never shows a slip value above 1 or 2 RPM. I also know that this is a PWM lockup, however this particular condition is new and definitely different than it used to behave. I've heard that there is an issue with the TCC valve bore wearing and causing a pressure loss. About 10K miles ago, I started noticing that at lower speeds when the torque converter should be fully locked (50-60MPH), that it will lockup like expected, but then there will be a couple seconds of slippage, allowing the engine RPM to increase 200-400 RPM, and then back to full lock.
It has been flushed (draining by opening the cooler line while running until it just runs out and them immediately stopping the engine, filling 4 quarts, and repeating 3 times), and the filter replaced at 50K intervals with non-synthetic oil. It has the original trans with a secondary stacked plate cooler added. I have a 2002 TrailBlazer 4x4 with 174K miles on it.
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